Angkor - A Journey That Exceeded Every Expectation
I'll be honest — my expectations weren't particularly high going in. I knew almost nothing about Angkor, the Khmer Empire, or Siem Reap. But it turned out to be one of my favourite trips in years, just like Roma. The temples are as awe-inspiring as anything I've seen in Italy; the countryside feels elemental and unhurried; and the locals are warm, courteous, and speak remarkably good English. If you love history, architecture, and culture, this place is for you.
This is a guide for anyone curious about Angkor but not quite sure where to start — from pre-trip research and where to stay, to how to make the most of the temples and a few pitfalls worth avoiding.
📒 Pre-Trip Homework
Rather than endlessly scrolling through YouTube or Threads, I'd recommend going deeper with books and documentaries.
If you have time: Angkor: Cambodia's Wondrous Khmer Temples offers a thorough introduction to the history, mythology, and customs of the region, along with suggested itineraries. My favourite section is a letter titled A Day on the Hill of the Gods.
If you're pressed for time: The Taiwanese art historian Chiang Hsun's documentary series The Beauty of Angkor is well worth your time.
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✈️ Getting There
There are very few direct flights to Siem Reap (SAI) — a connection is almost always required. I flew via Hanoi, which turned out to be a timing mistake: Vietnam celebrates the Chinese New Year even more than China, and getting a taxi was an absolute nightmare, with almost every shop shut.
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🏨 Where to Stay in Siem Reap
I made a classic mistake with this booking — prioritising proximity to the town centre and blindly trusting 9+ ratings on Google and Booking.com. I ended up at a so-called five-star hotel in a prime location, only to find ageing facilities and dreadful soundproofing. I didn't sleep a wink and checked out the next morning.
💡 If you value peace and quiet, avoid staying right in the centre of Siem Reap. There are motorbikes on the roads at all hours.
✅ Recommended: Phka Chan Hotel Found this after a hasty bit of research following my early checkout — and I adored it. I'd happily return. One caveat: there are a few karaoke bars nearby, so evenings can get slightly noisy. Everything else is perfect. The service has that rare quality of feeling effortless — warm and attentive without being formal, like a genuinely helpful friend who actually cares. Napping here in the afternoon is pure bliss: floor-to-ceiling windows thrown open, a gentle breeze, the scent of flowers, the sound of the pool, birdsong. There are similar-style hotels dotted around Siem Reap; if you do choose this one, I'd suggest requesting a room on the second floor.
❌ Not recommended: Angkor Village Hotel — SLH I came away disappointed and wouldn't return. There were a few small hiccups at check-in, with no inclination from staff to help proactively. The air conditioning was the noisiest I've encountered in any hotel in years; water pressure and temperature in the shower were both unreliable. Breakfast reflected the team's general standard — few guests, yet service was still muddled, and even the coffee was not great. 🤌🏻
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✨ My Recommendation
The architecture and bas-reliefs of Angkor are as awe-inspiring as Roma — a vision from what feels like another world entirely. The surrounding countryside, meanwhile, feels like a return to something elemental and pure.
The most famous temples are all genuinely worth visiting. For a slower pace, I'd recommend setting off around 4pm and arriving just as the clock strikes five. The light is soft and golden, the stonework looks magnificent, and the crowds have thinned considerably. Many sites also stop checking tickets after 5pm (Angkor's tickets aren't cheap).
Rent a motorbike. Tuk-tuks and ride-hailing are both convenient and affordable, but if you're confident on two wheels, this is the way to go. Riding around Siem Reap is genuinely pleasant — parking is easy and you'll feel perfectly safe.
Sunset Viewpoint 🌞 ទីតាំងមើលថ្ងៃលិច｜7RP6+5HF, Unnamed Road, Phnom Krom — Stunning countryside scenery and one of the best sunsets of the trip.
Bookish Siem Reap — A lovely bookshop.
Siem Reap also turns out to be a surprisingly good place to shop. Much of what's on offer is genuinely handmade — well-crafted, tasteful, and very reasonably priced. Some boutique owners are Japanese, and that quiet attention to detail in customer service shows.
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💡 Tips for First-Time Visitors
Money & payments. Carry around $100 in cash (customs checks do happen) along with some small change. Most shops in Siem Reap accept card; street vendors and tuk-tuk drivers tend to use ABA QR codes. That said, if you encounter children selling water bottles by the roadside, a bit of cash makes things considerably easier.
Mosquito prevention. There are plenty of mosquitoes in Southeast Asia, and what I found most effective wasn't repellent spray — it was clothing colour. My recommended combination: light-coloured long sleeves and white trousers. Dark clothing, particularly black, is highly attractive to the tiger mosquito, which carries dengue fever, and no repellent spray can fully compensate. The black linen trousers I packed were worn exactly once.
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The drive to the airport was tinged with sadness. I do love this place and the people. I've already decided I'll return for a longer, unhurried trip. I hope you have just as wonderful a time in Siem Reap. Cheers
